Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Laos

Our journey through Laos began once we said goodbye to Uncle Keiran and Nam and crossed the Mekong on a small boat. The next day we boarded a boat filled with about 150 backpackers for our 2 day trip down the Mekong to Luang Prabang. The boat trip consisted of laying around and drinking for two days. Tough ride.



Luang Prabang was an amazing city with incredible charm. The night market was amazing, you could have easily bought one of everything from the home spun silks to the jars of whiskey with snakes and scorpians (they are supposed to add an extra bite). We ate grilled fish and chicken at the street stalls with the group of people we met on the boat.


All the bars and resturants closed by 12, but there was an "after hours" option... and that was bowling. Bare foot, drunken bowling.



We took an hour ride in a tuk tuk to the Kuang Si waterfalls. Easily the most beautiful waterfalls we have seen, and we have seen a lot.


This was the main falls, which we walked up a misty, slippery hill to see from the top. Passing through a number of smaller falls and streams, amazingly with out slipping.

There were numerous teirs and terraces, all with crystal clear pools at the bottom that begged to be swimmed in. It was chiily, but worth it.

We broke off from the group we were with in Luang Prabang and took a side trip to Phonsavan to see "the Field of Jars". The night before seeing the jars were stumbled across a group of men playing bocce ball. They invited us to play and put glasses of beer in our hand. One of the men had a microphone and drunkenly narrated the event. It was good fun, and our introduction to Laos style drinking. There is only one glass, they fill it and hand it to you, you have to finish it before anyone esle can drink. When the wives came to collect their husbands we called it a night. The next morning we began the exploration of the fields.


The scenery was beautiful, but much of the land was unusable due to unexploaded mines and bombs dropped by the US during the Vietnem War. The new sprouts in the rice paddies were shades of green that we have never seen before. The greenest green we could imagine.

The "Plain of Jars" are a unique and unexplained wonder. They have theoris about their use as burial markers but no one knows for sure what they were there for. There were hundreds of stone jars at three different sites, all in amazingly beautiful countryside. All the sites had to be cleared of the bombs to allow tourists to visit the sites and had clearly marked paths that were known to be clear. Walking through the jars was an experience we were glad we made the trip for. It is on the list to become a world herritage site. Some of the stone jars were as big as a small car, while others were big enough to put a small child in.


Along the way we stopped at a local distilery of the lao lao rice whiskey. The education was almost enough to stop us from partaking in the whiskey...almost.


We caught up with the group we had been traveling with in Vang Vieng but the photos were lost later when our unbreakable underwater camera broke when we took it underwater on our road trip. Vang Vieng was a backpacker party town with unlimited "special" menus and Friends episodes at all the bars. We rented motor bikes and rode to a nearby cave. After all of us lugging our butts up the hill in the heat and slippery mud the cave was too hot, dark, and cramped to explore properly, so we went swimming in a nearby swimming whole. On the way back we were caught in a down pour and drove through the rain. Vang Vieng is known for its river tubing, we supplemented this for the Plain of Jars. Historical for drunken tobachery I'd say in the long run it was definietly worth it. Leaving Vang Vieng we headed south to Vientiene, Laos capital city, to see about getting a visa for Cambodia. Turned out we get the visa at the boarder and didn't need to stay in the town at all. Stayed at a what seemed to be nice hotel, until at 2 in the morning we were woken by unfriendly bed bugs making a feast out of us. Then as we left they tried to charge us 13 dollars for the room instead of 3. I know that sounds like nothing, but in a country where the average wage is 20 dollars a month its rediculous. After stupid haggleing we got the price droped to 7.5o and we headed south again towards Pakse to meet up with the group. At the same time we said our good byes to Karra and Ned who were heading to China.



So with the bed bug town behind us we floated into Pakse with no problems. From there we rented motor bikes again for a three day loop through the countryside. We stopped at waterfalls, ate noodle soup at tiny food stall on the side of the road, and slept at little guesthouses we found along the way. On the second day we were caught in a downpour that lasted nearly an hour. The best part about the downpour was where we were stuck, a small snooker club. When we say small we mean 1 table surrounded by 8 locals and 9 soaked tourists and 2 snooker tables all enclosed in two rooms the big enough for just that and no more. It also just happened to be Stephanie's birthday. The day was filled with silly songs of happy birthday, laughs and Beer Laos.



After Paske we all jumped on the bus and headed south to the Four Thousand Islands. The best thing about Don Det is Don Det. No electricity after 10 pm and no worries (Bo pen yun)(spelling pending) for the hours before. Your day consisted of testing your hammock's pendulum swinging abilities and reading a good book. Our plot was the Sunset Bungalows and they hold true to their name. The nights were kicked off with natures kelidoscope and they ended with Laos Loas Whiskey Mojito smiles.




If ambition hits you at just the right time in Don Det you can rent bicycles and travel around the islands to see things like waterfalls and river dolphins. Well believe it or not Emma was cohersted onto a bike!! Here you have her trying to avoid the camera.
Thailand, Laos and Cambodia have BBQ's, well kind of. The difference is that with these bbq's you get a soup, eggs and noodles. As the shirt says "Same Same but Different".

The theme song for Laos, that was sung sparatically throughout our time there by everyone we were traveling with, was the Simon and Garfunkel song "li li li" because thank you in Laos was kup chi li li. "Kup chi li li, li li li li li, kup chi li li". There were numerous verses to the song including all the terms we knew in Lao... good times. We loved Laos and could have easily spent another month there. Stephani, Miki, Kaara, Ned, Saar, Kris, Pascal(Ruud), Matthieu, Vincent and Stefan all made the experience in Laos much more fun and eventful! Thanks guys!

2 comments:

Unknown said...

Emma on a bike?!?! Wow, now that is adorable. :)

ET Travel said...

yaa, its no big deal... but dont get any ideas miss becky, it was probably a one time thing